Nestled between the culinary towns of Dijon and Lyon lies the winemaking region of Burgundy known as the Côte D'Or, with its street signs...

Climate change has made a large racket in the wine world the past couple of years. Some vintners such as Dom. Dujac in Burgundy are even attempting a carbon neutral operation through the use of new winemaking techniques and upgrades in the winery. Tax breaks, and subsidies under the authority of many governments reward producers generously for taking such initiatives.

Why is it that every interesting, high-acid red-producing region is the, Burgundy, of its country. Why must we compare everything to...