Etna Rosso - Nerello Mascalese - San Lorenzo, IT - 19
 
Girolamo Russo is one of the few producers who bottles single-contrada wines. This gem is a tricky one to find. Only a few hundred cases are made realistically in any given year. The current vintage is the 2019, and it really is a magnum opus for this producer - listed as a premium selection by top wine writers. It opens with mineral smoke, characteristic of tar and burning sage. these aromas fold nicely into an earthiness of seared mushroom and prosciutto. There is a funkiness of cave-ripened brie, and top tones of underripe cherry, stewed strawberry and dry apricot. This is one of the most expressive wines I've ever tasted, and will intensify with age.